| |
Sao Vicente Cape Verde cultural capital
Music and Carnaval band bars and night clubs
Apart from two extinct volcanos Monte Verde rising 774m and Topona
660m on the East Coast, Sao Vicente is a flat plain. The mountains
shield some of the island from the North-Easterly Trades. Discovered
on Saint Vincent’s Day, the 22nd January 1492, it was settled
from1838 when the British established a coaling station and later
a telegraph relay. The bars and cafes of Mindelo reflect its maritime
and British history. It is the cultural centre for music, poetry and
novels. The British introduced both cricket and golf. Although once
well cultivated, farming is now failing due to drought. The golf course
- the only one so far in the islands - is on baked mud with browns
instead of greens. A lot of English words have made it into the local
version of criolu.
. The hinterland is quite empty, but ideal for walking or riding
around.
See Mindelo the most developed
town in Cape Verde
J from Scotland spent only a couple of days there
"Sao Vicente is a totally different island. We spent only a
couple of days there but did a tour of the island and found some lovely
small beaches and fishing villages"
S from Lancs comments "Sao Vicente was beautiful
I hired a taxi driver and he took me all over the island for €30,
not bad hey. But all those half built properties just left there.
But in the town of Mindelo it is lovely. I went down a quiet road
just off the main area to be suddenly followed by two men so before
anything could happen I turned round towards them and walked past
them unharmed. But if I`d carried on down this dark road looking for
a restaurant I am sure my purse would have been robbed."
H from Essex liked it best of all.
"Sao Vicente was my favourite island. Fascinating mixture of people
and incredible landscapes. The Nautical Bar in Mindelo is a must as
is Nella's restaurant. Only two negatives, didn't get to meet Cesaria
Evora as she had left the day before for Paris and the Hotel Loutcha
where the staff seem not to care about anything, all a bit gloomy
really. "
F from Portugal
"Next to Sao Vicente's Airport there is a large beach surrounded
by a majestic arid landscape. Foya Branca Hotel faces the beach very
closely. The hotel Foya Branca has villas' with great panoramic ocean
view. The night fell and we went on to Mindelo, the largest city in
the island and the country's second largest. Sao Vicente is a small
island compared to others but it is the second most populated after
Santiago. Here it is the second largest town in Cape Verde, Mindelo.
Mindelo is considered the cultural capital mostly because of music
that seems to be everywhere. Mindelo has the most important port in
the country which is located in Mindelo Bay. This bay faces the majestic
mountains of Santo Antao, the island 1 hour away by boat. On the left
side of this bay Mount Cara (seems a human face) looks towards the
ocean. Behind Mindelo it is Mount Verde (Green) that seems to dominate
this side of the island. From there one can look at Gatas Bay down
there with its famous beach and Music festival site. On the other
side of the island, the village of Calhau faces the desert island
of Santa Luzia.
Laginha
The white, sandy beach of Laginha is where Chez Loutcha, a local restaurant
offers beach barbecues on Sundays.
Baia das Gatas
An hour from Mindelo, on the North Coast at Baia das Gatas, sand
and shingle form a long beach with a shallow paddling lagoon no more
than 1m deep. There are a couple of traditional Portuguese-style restaurants,
near the beach. In August it hosts the famous festival of tropical
music from all over the world.
See more of Baia das Gatas
Sao Pedro
A small fishing village, 10 km from Mindelo beside the airport runway
is famous for its beach where a wind funnel offers ideal conditions
for surfing. The Foya Branca Hotel is on this windy spot and the sea
has large breakers at most seasons.
Monte Verde
Monte Verde is the highest point of Sao Vicente. In sharp contrast to
the surrounding flatlands, rising 774m above the plain and with views
of Sao Nicolau and the bird island of Santa Luzia. F from Portugal admired
the view
" Next day, we drove up to Monte Verde from where the view over
Mindelo and Baia das Gatas is astonishing. We drove to Calhau at the
end of the island to have lunch in 'Chez Loutcha' but it was closed.
Back to Mindelo to snack on Azores cheese. That evening we listened
to 'Mornas' live and to Discotheque Pimm's and then to Histep, the
'working' disco. At 05:30 we were pushing our Suzuki Vitara without
fuel back to the hotel. By 06:00 we were dozing only to get up half
an hour later to catch the boat to Santo Antao."
Calhau
On the East Coast, a small fishing village, reached by a tortuous
road passing between the peaks of extinct volcanoes. This is the place
to eat fish and visit the Caves of Topim. Every Sunday Chez Loutcha
provides a buffet meal including transport from Mindelo, from ourtside
the hotel. You will have time to explore, talk to the locals who own
beach huts and swim. The ride is bumpy and cramped but worth it.
Salamansa
A quiet fishing village set some distance from the sea off the road
to Baia das Gatas. It has a pretty church and just two bars, where you
may have to rouse the owner from his torpor to serve you local beers
and of course coke.
|
